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By Tom Wilson, Photography by Tom Wilson
5.0 Mustang & Super Fords
October 26, 2012
KB Two-Point Heavy-duty Strut Tower Brace
KB Lower Chassis Brace
KB Extreme Matrix Brace
KB Jacking Rails
Front Suspension Upgrades
KB AGS 4.0 Front Lower Control Arm Module
Club Sport Coilover Shocks & Springs with Adjustable Ride Height
Adjustable Front Sway Bar
Camber Adjustment Bolts (2)
Rear Suspension Upgrades
KB AGS 4.0 Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms with Double Rod Ends
KB Rear K-Link Upper Control Arm Module
KB Rear Traction Anti-Squat Geometry Brackets
KB AGS 4.0 Roll Center Bracket Kit (includes GT4 adjustable rear Panhard bar)
—Recommended AGS 4.0 Club Sport Suspension Upgrades
KB AGS Tubular K-Member*
* Designed for use with Kenny Brown Front Lower Control Arms
Once trimmed, tack-weld the truss to the jacking-rail reinforcement. Then remove the assembly and weld it solidly together on the bench. On the chassis prep where the truss and rail mate, buzz off the paint to bare metal, refit the subrame assembly, and weld it to the chassis.The KB subframe does ride over the fuel filter on the driver side; change the fuel filter now if there is any question about its condition.
Once trimmed, tack-weld the truss to the jacking-rail reinforcement. Then remove the assem
Up front, remove the wheels, tires and front struts, then take out the lower control arms. The tough part is persuading this lower control arm mounting bolt to break free--a stout wrench and cheater are typically required. Note that the bolt head is your only option as the nut--visible here--is welded to the K-member.
Up front, remove the wheels, tires and front struts, then take out the lower control arms.
Once the bolts are out, the lower control arm will take a little leverage to pry free, thanks to the tight fit provided by the bushings. The open bolt hole just above the pry bar is the one requiring a little egging out, which we'll get to in a minute.
Once the bolts are out, the lower control arm will take a little leverage to pry free, tha
Here's the blacksmithing portion of the job--hammering, chiseling, and plain-old willing this weld nut on the K-member to come off. This is necessary because the KB control arm has a slight twist in it, and uses a through-bolt and nut instead of the stock weld nut.
Here's the blacksmithing portion of the job--hammering, chiseling, and plain-old willing t
Dry-fit the Kenny Brown lower control arm in order to judge how much of the front inner mounting bolt hole in the K-member must be relieved. Eyeballing the mismatch is close enough.
Dry-fit the Kenny Brown lower control arm in order to judge how much of the front inner mo
Luckily it won't take much elongating of the hole to get the KB bolt through the K-member and control arm, 1/32 inch is typical. Use what you can for this job; a sharp rat-tail file and side-loading a drill both work.
Luckily it won't take much elongating of the hole to get the KB bolt through the K-member
The KB lower control arm is lighter and less bulky than stock, and has a grease fitting on the lower ball joint for positive lubrication. Kenny Brown also has you install new Motorsport outer tie-rod ends; again, they have a Zerk fitting. The Kenny Brown installation seems a bit barbaric when it comes to elongating the control arm mounting hole, but it saves the expense and installation of a new K-member.
The KB lower control arm is lighter and less bulky than stock, and has a grease fitting on
The last step in our install was fitting the lower chassis brace, which used to commonly be called a g-load brace. It is simple nut and bolt wor--the brace stiffens the K-member against side loads.
The last step in our install was fitting the lower chassis brace, which used to commonly b
8521 Road 256
Kenny Brown Performance
57D Gasoline Alley
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By Tom Wilson
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