|
|
Plumbing Vortech's Mondo Intercooler - Cold CasePlumbing the icebox that will frost T-top Coupe’s boosted air From the October, 2011 issue of 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords By KJ Jones Photography by By The Author
|
|
We're fully aware that the wheels of Project T-top Coupe's comeback progress are moving glacially, but despite various delays, those wheels have not come to a full stop. Those of you keeping up with the coupe's affairs already know that a brand-new A.R.E. Performance and Machine-built 352ci bullet is now installed in our rare '86 notchback, and the engine's crankshaft and Paxton Novi 2000 supercharger are sporting big and little cog-drive pulleys respectively, for achieving major boost. Of course, making big boost has never been an issue for the project. However, sustaining the Novi's 21 psi over multiple dyno pulls or dragstrip passes had become a bit of a challenge-even with a 10-rib serpentine belt. While the conversion to cogs remedies belt slippage, we're a lot more excited about another addition to the coupe's performance mix-a water-to-air intercooler system. In a boosted application, heat is considered the arch enemy of the piston (typically the weakest link in an engine's rotating assembly). We've experienced the truth in this assessment firsthand, as super-hot inlet-air temps and cylinder pressure have reduced the coupe's slugs to melted aluminum on two occasions. Sometimes it really does take three attempts at something to get it right. This type of repetition is unfortunate-and there's no doubt it becomes expensive after a while, as our experiences with catastrophic failure have shown us. Hopefully it has also shown you the importance of building engines with internal hardware designed for supporting big-time power under severe-duty conditions. As we explained in our last installment on the T-top project (Grand Scheme, Mar. '11, p. 75), loading the engine with JE Pistons and adding a Vortech Mondo water-to-air intercooler are the major changes we've made in this third, and hopefully final, stab at making Couptie a legitimate 1,000hp street 'Stang. As a general rule of thumb, it makes no difference whether you're using nitrous oxide, water-methanol, alcohol (as fuel), or some other cooling agent. The bottom line is that cold, dense inlet air is a must for ensuring the kind of combustion efficiency that promotes big steam. Vortech's water-to-air intercooler unit definitely will play the co-starring role in lowering our blown beast's air-charge temperature. You're probably thinking the Igloo chiller itself is the lead component in this setup, but we're actually giving ice the top spot. That's right. Ice cubes are without question the most important ingredients necessary for making water cold enough. While hard-core details on the intercooler are featured in the sidebar (Tough Gig) of the aforementioned article in our March issue, plumbing the 'cooler's water works is our focus in this month's effort. Transferring ice-cold water from Point A (a 5-gallon aluminum reservoir mounted in the rear-seat area of the coupe) to Point B (the intercooler) is the second-most-important aspect of the Igloo system, and we want to be sure the unit gets plenty of frosty fluid when the blower and engine are at full scream. To do this, we're installing a suite of braided hose and aluminum AN fittings from Earl's Performance Plumbing, and laying everything out so that it doesn't stray too far away from T-top Coupe's street-'Stang persona. Scott McLaughlin is one of three new guys (our friends Rick Anderson and Ricky Best are the other newbies on Uncle Robin Lawrence's team) at Holley Performance Products. Scott brings an extensive background in high-performance automotive plumbing to the group, which makes him a natural for working with Earl's (a division of Holley) products. Lucky for us, Scott also is a big-time Ford enthusiast. As such, Scott graciously provided his time and assistance with design, product selection, and installation of our project Mustang's intercooler-plumbing bits.  While some liquid-based intercooler/heat-exchanger...  While some liquid-based intercooler/heat-exchanger systems draw fluid either directly from a Mustang’s radiator system or via small reservoirs mounted in a Mustang’s engine compartment, the Mondo ’cooler requires feeding from a larger source...  ...We’re using a 5-gallon...  ...We’re using a 5-gallon ice-water tank from Dad’s Fabrication, which features an internally mounted, high-volume water pump and a transmission cooler. Typical placement for such units is in a Pony’s hatch or trunk. However, since the coupe’s trunk is packed with a full-on KDezines audio system, we decided to drop the Dad’s piece smack in the middle of the rear-seat area. The interior location for the tank gives us easy access when it’s time to load the cold stuff, check fluid levels, or drain when the ride is over.  Plumbing for this effort requires...  Plumbing for this effort requires taking precise measurements long before ordering any of the hose or fittings that are needed for the job. Our buddy Scott McLaughlin is new to Holley Performance Products and comes to the company as a high-performance-plumbing specialist. Our work was performed in the cozy confines of T&M Performance in San Fernando, California, and Tech Editor Jones' home garage in Reseda. T&M is Tim McLaughlin's-Scott's dad-cool little man cave, and we thank Tim immensely for giving us access to a twin-post hoist and full run of his place for a day. As you'll see in the following photos and captions, duplicating Project T-top Coupe's slick new intercooler plumbing only requires a good set of cutters, handtools, and a solid plan. However, while the project can be accomplished without a twin-post hoist (using a jack and jackstands to safely lift the car), we strongly recommend the hoist. Horse Sense: The idea of intercooling any boosted application is to remove heat from intake air charge before it enters the engine. The Igloo intercooler consists of three 4.5-inch-thick cores that measure 13.5x9 inches inside a sealed, cast-aluminum box that bolts to the lower intake manifold. Using ice-cold water as the cooling agent, the hot supercharged intake air passes through the cores twice and is cooled down dramatically before entering the heads (without any significant loss of boost pressure). The Igloo has a maximum 2,000-cfm flow rating, which is well within the airflow parameters we'll need to make 1,000 horses.  Using a tape measure, a calculator...  Using a tape measure, a calculator app, and a legal pad, Scott mapped out a killer layout for the intercooler system’s plumbing and noted all of the materials we would need, right down to the last fitting.  Here’s a look at the array...  Here’s a look at the array of AN -10 and AN -6 (for the transmission cooler) braided hose and accompanying fittings that we’re installing. Our effort calls for 33-feet of both size hoses. The twin-post hoist at T&M Performance is used for the heavy lifting to get the under-car segments of this plumbing job done in quick fashion.  It really doesn’t take much...  It really doesn’t take much beyond this selection of tools to fully plumb a water-to-air intercooler system. The Klein (technically bolt) cutters go through braided hose like a hot knife through butter, and Koul Tools (www.koultools.com) make installing hose ends an easy, painless proposition.  We initially had Simi Valley...  We initially had Simi Valley Hot Rods install AN -8 (left) fittings in the Igloo’s water feed/return rails, which ultimately would not have met the intercooler’s high-volume demands. After consultation with engineers at Vortech, and several NMRA and PSCA racers who use similar or more-aggressive ’cooler systems, we’re stepping up our system’s flow with AN -10 hardware and line on both sides. In standard-measurement terms, the change takes our setup from ½-inch to 5⁄8-inch.  The Earl’s Ano-Tough aluminum...  The Earl’s Ano-Tough aluminum fittings are secured in the water rails with Teflon paste, not tape, to ensure there aren’t any leaks when the flow gets going. When the system is complete, a pair of 90-degree AN -10 fittings joins with these pieces, sending ice-cold water into and out of the Igloo.  “Where should I cut?” is a...  “Where should I cut?” is a common question that is asked when working with braided line and AN fittings. Scott suggests using duct tape and a marker to index correct lengths. After threading a hose end onto a fitting, place a mark on the tape at the spot where the fitting mates flush with the hose end. Using this method almost guarantees you’ll have perfect-length hose between any two points in your plumbing job.  Earlier in this report we...  Earlier in this report we mentioned using Koul Tools for simple placement of hose ends on braided hose. With the Earl’s line, the tools aren’t mandatory for hose-end installation, but we do recommend using Royal Purple’s Tuff Lube on fittings before mating them with your hoses. Using lubricant prevents threads from binding as the hose-end/fitting union gets closer to final, and makes the process go a lot smoother than if the parts are joined dry. With cutter-style (versus single-nipple) fittings, the end of the fitting actually bites into the rubber jacket inside the hose, making its connection with the hose end more secure.  Earl’s Perform-O-Flex hose...  Earl’s Perform-O-Flex hose features the company’s proprietary PKR inner liner. Because of its increased density, the synthetic liner supports corrosive fluids such as gasoline, E-85, and so on, and provides constant flow at operating temperatures from -40 to 302 degrees.  The water’s feed-and-return...  The water’s feed-and-return hoses are set up to run along the back of the Igloo and over to the passenger-side fender.  Our ’cooler’s plumbing job...  Our ’cooler’s plumbing job is custom, and thus requires a little fabrication here and there in order to complete the job per its design. AN -10 bulkheads are used to join the water system’s front (engine compartment) and rear segments at the passenger-side fender.  Using a piece of scrap metal,...  Using a piece of scrap metal, Scott made this neat bracket for the bulkheads. The plate is held in place by the feed and return lines themselves (additional bolts or rivets are not necessary).  We suggest using a set of...  We suggest using a set of aluminum soft jaws when you’re tightening fittings in a bench vise. The aluminum plates help protect the anodizing from scratches and scuff marks that a vise’s standard jaws can cause.  The engine-compartment section...  The engine-compartment section of our plumbing effort is complete—the hoses are perfect length and secure. With this portion of the job finished, it’s time to move on to the heart of the project, routing water between the tank and this final leg of the system.  With the Dad’s water tank...  With the Dad’s water tank mounted in the rear seat area straddling the transmission tunnel, we considered a few options for routing the intercooler system’s water-feed-and-return lines. Due to concern about fluid passing through the ’Stang’s cabin, the decision was made to transfer water below the car using a series of AN -10 bulkheads and 90-degree fittings mounted in the pocket of space below the rear-seat riser. A piece of chalk placed inside the fitting is used to index the drilling locations.  Another plus about using chalk...  Another plus about using chalk is that measurement notes can be written on just about anything and wiped away once the holes are cut.  A hole saw is used to bore...  A hole saw is used to bore two openings in the rear-seat riser.  The seat riser’s thin, weak...  The seat riser’s thin, weak makeup requires using washers behind the bulkheads to prevent the riser from crushing when the couplings are made.  A general rule applies whenever...  A general rule applies whenever you’re working with braided line for any application: Check measurements several times, so you only have to cut once.  Here’s a below-car look at...  Here’s a below-car look at the first segment of our water-line strategy. As you’ll see in the next two photos, Ear’s AN -10 braided hose runs the length of T-top Coupe’s floor and meets the bulkheads in the front fender that were installed earlier.  Here’s a below-car look at...  Here’s a below-car look at the first segment of our water-line strategy...  ...As you’ll see in the next...  ...As you’ll see in the next two photos, Ear’s AN -10 braided hose runs the length of T-top Coupe’s floor and meets the bulkheads in the front fender that were installed earlier.  Keeping a transmission’s fluid...  Keeping a transmission’s fluid and internal parts cool can be challenging with a ’Stang that makes big steam. T-top Coupe has always had a transmission cooler (a B&M unit that’s supported by an external fan), which does a good job of keeping the Performance Automatic AODE happy), but now we’re adding a second unit that should keep trans temps super low during long summer cruises. These two AN -6 fittings send fluid into and out of the transmission.  Earl’s AN -6 braided hose...  Earl’s AN -6 braided hose and (once again) 90-degree and straight fittings are called on to complete the plumbing arrangement for the transmission cooler.  Don’t mind the blue fittings...  Don’t mind the blue fittings as they’re from the trans cooler’s original hose layout. What we’re doing now is running two transmission coolers in a series, where hot fluid passes through this fan-assisted unit first and then back to the ice-packed unit in the tank. From there, super-cool transmission oil is routed back into the transmission, which should help keep its internals plenty happy.  While this plumbing layout...  While this plumbing layout looks like it was inspired by an L.A. freeway, it represents the shortest distance between the three main points of the cooling system: the tank, the tranny, and the Igloo.  On Performance Automatic’s...  On Performance Automatic’s Super Comp AODE, fluid enters the transmission via the top port and exits through the lower hose.  Transmission fluid enters...  Transmission fluid enters and exits the tank-mounted cooler via hoses connected to its rear panel. A natural hole in the floorpan serves as an efficient point for routing the lines into and out of the cabin.  Transmission fluid enters...  Transmission fluid enters and exits the tank-mounted cooler via hoses connected to its rear panel. A natural hole in the floorpan serves as an efficient point for routing the lines into and out of the cabin.  Getting ice water out of and...  Getting ice water out of and returned into the Dad’s tank requires using a stepped assortment of fittings, starting with 1-inch pipe (thread) into 3/4-inch pipe, and finally AN -10.  This is our completed plumbing...  This is our completed plumbing effort with the carpet in place and trimmed around the water’s entry/exit bulkheads. A Fox rear-seat bottom will be covered in matching material and split to create individual bucket seats that will surround the tank. The line coming from the front of the tank is for water drainage, for which an Open/Closed valve will be added later. Air Command
When you look at automotive plumbing on a big-picture scale, it's important to understand that there's more to it than simply channeling fluids throughout a Mustang's engine, drivetrain, and accessories. Air is another entity that is "plumbed," primarily into the engine. However, it also can be routed toward brakes and other segments of a 'Stang, typically for cooling purposes. Our focus in this report obviously has been on the liquid side of T-top Coupe's plumbing. However, as part of this effort to make 1,000 rwhp, we also had to make sure there is sufficient tubing in place for feeding supercharged air into the intercooler. Special thanks go out to Mike Reagan and is team at Vortech's Engineering department for creating a smooth, one-piece discharge tube for our application (that incorporates a huge MaxFlow bv57 bypass valve). With hood clearance (cowl size) being high on the list of important concerns when designing the tube, the finished piece is perfect and will serve us well as we head for the dyno and making big steam.  We’re expecting cog-drive...  We’re expecting cog-drive pulleys will help produce tremendous wind from T-top coupe’s Paxton Novi 2000 supercharger, and especially with the all-new Novi 2500 that also will be tested. A custom discharge tube is necessary for our blower/Igloo combination, and we thank engineers at Vortech for creating a beautiful aluminum, 3.5-inch tube for our setup.  As you can imagine, a lot...  As you can imagine, a lot of air will pass through our coupe’s engine with each whack of the throttle. Vortech’s huge MaxFlow bv57 bypass valve (1,300 cfm at 10 psi) is plumbed into the discharge tube, to ensure bypassed air (when the throttle closes) is fully evacuated...  ...The valve, which requires...  ...The valve, which requires the weld-on, O-ring-sealed flange shown in the photo, is designed specifically for use in big-boost, speed-density applications like ours. Notice the sensor at the right of the bypass-valve flange? That’s a second inlet-air-temperature sensor, which will tell us exactly how warm the blower’s output airflow is before it hits the Igloo.  We included plumbing for the...  We included plumbing for the coupe’s Snow Performance Stage 3 water-methanol system just in front of an Accufab 90mm throttle body...  ...We still plan on evaluating...  ...We still plan on evaluating what effect it has on water-to-air-intercooled air.
|
|
|