When introduced, enthusiasts greeted the '03 Cobra with excitement. After all, it included what many had on their wish list: a supercharged engine, a six-speed transmission, and an independent rear suspension. But instead of specifying an aluminum block, as it had from 1996, SVT engineers chose an iron-block. Whether the decision was made out of concern for durability or cost, many believed the iron-block was a step backward--adding weight to an already nose-heavy car.
Believe it or not, the first '03 Mustang Cobras are almost 10 years old. After nearly a decade of supercharged service, it's understandable that many of those first Terminator mills are ready for retirement. Of course, that's if they've survived the usual regimen of over-boosted Eatons, twin-screw replacements, and the occasional nitrous hit. So when Ford Racing Performance Parts introduced its lineup of Aluminator crate engines a few years ago, it released two part numbers aimed squarely at these '03-'04 Cobras: M-6007-A46SC for the long-block and A-6009-A46SC for the short-block. With a little help from FRPP, Terminator Cobras can get the aluminum block they deserve.
Both the short- and long-blocks use the M-6010-A46SC Aluminator block. Utilizing a chilled-bulkhead casting process; round main-web windows; and ball-burnished, 17mm-thick main caps, the Aluminator block is all about strength and durability--important when considering that many owners will throw nearly 1,000 hp at this thing. For Terminator duty, FRPP removes the knock sensor bosses for intercooler clearance. The block is machined to accept the '03-'04 Cobra's front cover and engine dress to make the swap a direct, bolt-in affair.
The top offering from FRPP is the Aluminator long-block, which is complete from valve covers to the oil pan. It is by far the easiest way to complete an Aluminator swap and is the subject of this story. FRPP even includes multi-layer exhaust gaskets, exhaust hardware, intake gaskets, and a new coolant thermostat.
To handle the installation, we relied upon Rehagen Racing in Livonia, Michigan. A stone's throw from Ford Racing's warehouse, Rehagen Racing's shop is well-equipped and packed to the gills with Mustangs in various stages of preparation. With a staff that shares decades of experience engineering, building, and racing Mustangs, we knew this Terminator was in good hands.
Even though the bulk of the swap is a straightforward remove and replace exercise, there were a few deviations we wanted to make: an Even Flow Cooling kit (see sidebar) and a set of JBA mid-length headers that Rehagen Racing had left over from their Grand-Am series race cars. Anyone who's installed a set of headers on a mod-motored SN-95 will tell you that the easiest way to install headers is with the engine out! We picked up a set of nifty Split-Lock header fasteners from Percy's High Performance (www.percyshp.com) to bolt them up.
There are two ways to remove a modular engine from a New Edge Mustang--top or bottom. Many prefer to unbolt the K-member and raise the car away from the engine. However, that method requires a chassis lift, and the air conditioning system must be evacuated and disconnected.
Removing the engine from the top is a bit more time-consuming, but it can be done with an engine hoist, and the air conditioning and power steering systems can be left intact. Since most people who attempt this swap themselves don't have a lift, Rehagen Racing elected to show how to pull the engine from the top. However, the crew did use a chassis lift to save some time and allow for better photographs.
The '03-'04 Cobra cylinder heads developed a hot spot from poor coolant flow at the rear of the left head. The hot spot could overheat exhaust valve guides, loosen up their tolerance, and cause a valvetrain "tick." While coolant from the rear of the right head flows through the heater core and then to the water pump, there isn't such a path for the left side. This issue set Internet forums ablaze for several years, and after a series of attempts to fix the tick issue, Ford released a revised cylinder head with improved coolant flow in January 2005.
To help the early heads' cooling efficiency, Even Flow Cooling offers a cooling modification kit that draws coolant from a special fitting that is installed in the rear of the left side head and feeds it to a T-fitting in the upper radiator hose. Even though Aluminator long-blocks such as ours had the updated heads, we installed an Even Flow Cooling kit as added insurance.

First, Rehagen Racing’s Jesse...

First, Rehagen Racing’s Jesse Cox removed the battery, the aftermarket strut-tower brace, and drained the engine and supercharger coolant.

Next, the throttle cables...

Next, the throttle cables were disconnected and laid aside.

Since the engine was coming...

Since the engine was coming out the top, the author and Jesse removed the hood.

In anticipation of unbolting...

In anticipation of unbolting the A/C compressor and power steering pump, Jesse released the drive-belt tension and slackened the belts.

Jesse released the fuel pressure...

Jesse released the fuel pressure and disconnected the fuel line with a quick disconnect tool.

The 42-pin and 16-pin wiring...

The 42-pin and 16-pin wiring harness connectors were separated next.

Jesse then dropped the aftermarket...

Jesse then dropped the aftermarket X-type pipe to gain access to the transmission.

With the bellhousing removed,...

With the bellhousing removed, Jesse removed the clutch pressure plate, disc, and flywheel. We didn’t forget to remove two of the bolts—the flywheel has two threaded holes (arrows) that, when two flywheel bolts are evenly screwed into them, “push” the flywheel off of the crankshaft.

The battery-side of the harness...

The battery-side of the harness was disconnected from the power distribution box and the upper radiator support.

To remove the transmission,...

To remove the transmission, Jesse climbed inside and removed the shifter.

These lifting brackets make...

These lifting brackets make pulling an engine much easier. They’re available from your local Ford dealer as part numbers D93P-6001-A1 and D93P-6001-A2. Rehagen Racing painted them yellow for the same reason a surgeon takes an inventory after surgery.

Jesse removed and secured...

Jesse removed and secured the power steering fluid reservoir out of harm’s way. He finished up the top-side work by removing the air inlet tube assembly, radiator cover, and coolant hoses.

Jesse supported the transmission...

Jesse supported the transmission and unbolted it from the bellhousing.

With an engine hoist hooked...

With an engine hoist hooked up to the lifting brackets, Jesse and Tim Stewart removed the Terminator’s engine.

Moving under the car, Jesse...

Moving under the car, Jesse freed the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor from the engine. One of the key advantages of removing the engine from the top is the air-conditioning and power-steering systems can be left undisturbed.

Rehagen Racing’s Steve Carcone...

Rehagen Racing’s Steve Carcone was called over to play “transmission jack” and help lower the six-speed to the floor.

FRPP includes a new set of...

FRPP includes a new set of exhaust gaskets, exhaust hardware, thermostat and O-rings, and new intake gaskets (already installed on the engine) with an Aluminator long-block.

This car’s aftermarket firewall...

This car’s aftermarket firewall adjuster made removing the clutch cable simple. The cable tension was released at the firewall, the clutch cable was disconnected from the clutch fork, and then removed from the vehicle.

With the headers on and everything...

With the headers on and everything back into place on the engine, the crew lowered the Aluminator into the Terminator’s engine compartment.

Before firing the engine,...

Before firing the engine, Jesse used an engine primer fashioned from a garden sprayer. A barb-to NPT adapter on the end of the sprayer connected to a port in the bottom of the oil filter adapter. Pumping the sprayer fed the last few quarts of oil through the engine prior to starting it for the first time.

The auxiliary crank pulley...

The auxiliary crank pulley is threaded into the crank damper with left-hand threads. It took some muscle to remove. (Note: Stewart uses a breaker bar, not an impact wrench). A visiting Shaun Day loaned his mass to prevent the engine from rolling over.

We took this opportunity to...

We took this opportunity to install headers. Rehagen Racing had a set of JBA mid-lengths left from its SN-95 Grand-Am road racing program.

To secure the headers, we...

To secure the headers, we used these Split Lock header bolts from Percy’s High Performance. Tightening the set-screw spreads the threads at the end of the bolt, locking them into place.

With the OEM valve covers...

With the OEM valve covers in place, this engine compartment looks like business as usual. Only the scale knows there’s nearly 50 pounds less on the nose of this Terminator.

While Jesse removed the bellhousing...

While Jesse removed the bellhousing from the engine, the author installed a fresh throw-out-bearing and, well, threw the old one out.

With the engine out, Jesse...

With the engine out, Jesse and Stewart started transferring parts from the iron-blocked engine to the Aluminator.

Tim swapped the complete front...

Tim swapped the complete front engine dress from the old engine to the new one.

Since Rehagen Racing is headed...

Since Rehagen Racing is headed by Ford engineers, the crew is fanatical about using torque wrenches. A nearby laptop kept the torque specifications handy and the impacts in the toolbox.

To retain the characteristic...

To retain the characteristic monochromatic look of the Terminator engine, the OEM valve covers were swapped onto the Aluminator.

With the valve covers and...

With the valve covers and coils installed, Jesse fastened the coolant crossover into place with a torque wrench.

When lowering the supercharger...

When lowering the supercharger assembly onto the Aluminator, the bottom intake manifold evacuation fitting interfered with the Aluminator block’s valley.

This freeze plug had to be...

This freeze plug had to be removed from right-side head to install the heater core fitting. Jesse hit it off-center with a punch and extracted it with a pliers.

The OEM evacuation fitting...

The OEM evacuation fitting is unnecessarily tall, so a local hardware store had the 3⁄8-inch NPT elbow and 3⁄8-inch NPT to 3⁄8-inch hose adapter we needed to gain the necessary clearance. With the new fitting installed, we were back in business.