Cervini Hood and Chin Spoiler Install - Nose Job

The billet inserts for the hood opening attach to the underside with self-tapping screws. Unless you're Popeye with superhuman strength, this will require a power tool of your choosing.

The billet inserts for the hood opening attach to the underside with self-tapping screws. Unless you're Popeye with superhuman strength, this will require a power tool of your choosing.

With the striker bar removed from the factory hood and installed on the Cervini's unit, Allen Colding and Mike Rosier from Express Paint & Body lift the hood into place before attaching the bolts.

The Cervini's hood bracket goes between the hood hinge and the washers. They are labeled, and are specific to one side or the other. It should orient so you read Cervini's from the inside of the hood.

Mike then snaps the gas strut onto the fender bracket and the hood bracket on the hood. He then aligns the hood for clearance on the sides and rear. In our case, aligning the hood latch had to wait until the front fascia was repaired, painted, and reinstalled.

The next step is to remove the weatherstripping from the rear of the factory hood and attach it to the new hood, where it holds the washer relocation hose in place. Be careful with this step as the plastic friction clips are fragile. You'll need to reuse the clips when installing the weatherstripping on the new hood, so use a door-panel removal tool and take your time.

Because of the design of its hoods, Cervini's provides new washer squirters. These simply screw into place at the rear of the hood, as seen here. They come pre-bent and can be adjusted slightly if necessary to allow proper alignment.

Once the weatherstripping is in place on the new hood, cut a small slit in the weatherstripping to allow the washer hose to feed through the inside and come out near the washer diverters. You then can use the provided T-connector to attach the separate hoses for the squirters.

Moving to the chin spoiler, you must first remove four screws on the bottom of the front fascia, and then remove two screws in both right and left fender wells.

Here Allen holds the chin spoiler in place as Mike begins reinstalling the screws. In addition, there are three new self-tapping screws included with the chin spoiler that go through predrilled holes in the spoiler into the front bumper. As you can see, having the car on jackstands or a lift would make this much easier.

Allen starts the screws that go through the chin spoiler into the front bumper inside the fender well. Once all eleven screws are tightened, the chin spoiler is attached and ready for action.