Next, the factory airbox and inlet duct are disconnected and removed. We're not going to detail electrical and other disconnections here, mostly because modifications of factory harnesses or vacuum lines aren't necessary. They all practically fall back into place on the new blower and inlet system. | 
At some point, the factory mass air element is unbolted from the stock inlet and swapped over to the new 120mm housing. Specific bolt-hole orientation precludes any possibility installing the element upside down. | 
Now the stock twin-bore throttle body is unbolted from the inlet elbow. The elbow will be unbolted from the blower. It can't be removed as an assembly with the old blower because there's one blower bolt smack beneath the inlet elbow. |
The EGR valve assembly is then removed from the passenger-side rear of the blower. It will be reused with the Whipple. As usual, the EGR tube nut will give minimal resistance if your Shelby is nearly new, but heat cycling/corrosion can make it a wrestling match on higher-mileage vehicles. | 
Harnesses are unplugged from the fuel-pressure sensor (passenger side) and the injectors themselves; then the fuel line is disconnected. Next the entire assembly-injectors and all-is carefully lifted off. It will go back on around the Whipple as is. If you're doing this yourself, it's a good idea to place some tape over the injector ports lest something hard should fall in and ruin your day-and engine. | 
Ten bolts secure the factory blower to the aluminum lower-intake/intercooler assembly. They won't be reused with the Whipple, which has its own fasteners. As Karl lifts off the old blower, you can see the intercooler nestled in the lower manifold. |
Comparing the two, note that the Whipple has an integral inlet elbow and a pulley that's slightly smaller than the factory Eaton's. Boost, however, is rated at about 16 psi for the Whipple, considerably more than the Roots' 12 psi. | 
The driver-side rear bolt on the Whipple is difficult to access because of the integral inlet elbow. That particular mount-hole flange is slotted on the blower in order to slide under the bolt, shown here as it's loosely preinstalled. Once the blower is in place, this bolt is best tightened with an open-end or ratcheting box-end wrench. | 
One other task to prepare for the new blower is to swap out the factory thermostat for the kit's 160-degree replacement. |
Here, PHP's super techs Karl (right) and Mike "Shades" Sears share the limelight and slide the Whipple into place, carefully slotting the back corner under the aforementioned partially seated bolt. Note that aside from swapping thermostats, none of the coolant plumbing needs to be touched to perform the blower swap. | 
With the fuel rails/injectors bolted back down and the factory serpentine drivebelt engaged on the Whipple's blower pulley, the kit's high-flow throttle body and cold-air setup are next on the hit list. | 
On the passenger side of the Whipple, the factory EGR assembly (arrow) is bolted in place. It's somehow gratifying to think that these days, we can have more power than three factory 5.0-liters would put out and still have full emissions compliance-mean and green. |