Not only is the turbocharger water cooled, it also uses engine oil as its lifeblood. As with most supercharged applications, a hole must be put in the oil pan for the oil drain hose. Using a 1⁄8-inch drill bit and the supplied tapered center punch, the hole is tapped for an included fitting. Cut a 32-inch length of the 5⁄8 hose and attach it to the fitting. The other end will attach to the turbo.
To put in the oil feed line, locate and remove the oil pressure sensor. Using supplied components, a fitting assembly installs in place of the pressure sensor. The oil pressure sensor and the oil feed line will install into the assembled fitting.
Turbonetics recommends loosening the front sway bar to make working room for installing the turbo-charger assembly and exhaust tubing. Several fluid and electrical lines in the turbocharger area must be wrapped to protect them from the heat generated by the turbocharger and its tubing.
To make even more room for the turbo install, the upper radiator brackets must be drilled for two new holes to move the top of the radiator 3⁄4 inch forward. The factory radiator shroud must also be modified.
The factory H-pipe needs to be modified to accept the turbocharger's exhaust tubing. It has to be cut 2 1⁄2 inches downstream of the catalytic converters. Using factory clamps from farther down the stock exhaust, install the Turbonetics Y-pipe onto the catalytic converter pipes.
The pipe Turbonetics labels "exhaust pipe 2" attaches to the Y-pipe using a V-band clamp. Exhaust pipe 2's bracket also uses a front lower transmission bellhousing bolt to hold it in place. As with most exhaust systems, loosely attach exhaust pipes until the complete assembly is installed, so it can be manipulated to make sure other pipes and tubes will also fit.
The exhaust pipes and tubes use various brackets to keep them stable. This one uses three oil pan bolts at the bottom of the engine block. The other attaches to the A/C compressor studs, held in place by two nuts.
At this point, it's time to get out the heat wrap for the downpipe and the exhaust up-pipe. Turbonetics supplies safety wire to secure the heat wrap on the pipes.
The aforementioned A/C compressor bracket holds downpipe 1 in place. Turbonetics recommends fitting a V-band clamp onto downpipe 1 prior to the fitting of downpipe 2.
The up-pipe (facing up in this image) uses this support bracket for stability. The bracket attaches to an engine stud using the factory nut. The up-pipe attaches to exhaust pipe 2 (attached to the Y-pipe) and uses the oil pan bracket for stability. The up-pipe is also where the turbocharger mounts, hence the flange.
The Evo wastegate installs in the up-pipe leading to the turbocharger. A wastegate regulates the amount of air ingested by the turbocharger. Without a wastegate, the turbocharger would feed ever-increasing boost into an engine, which is especially bad for stock engines that can only handle up to 10 pounds of boost. For Darrell's car, the Zamboni crew regulated the wastegate to allow 7 pounds of boost to the engine. The other end of the wastegate dump tube is routed to downpipe 2.
Here's a good look at downpipe 2, which Shawn is attaching with the help of the passenger-side lower bellhousing bolt. Downpipe 2 attaches to downpipe 1 at the front, as well as downpipe 3, which leads back to the rest of the exhaust.
Downpipe 3 is a single pipe that turns into a dual so it can be mated to the stock exhaust leading over the rear axle. Turbonetics provides new clamps for mating the pipes. One thing we ran into-and you will, too-is that when you first look at where all the pipes are supposed to be mounted, you'll think the folks at Turbonetics have lost their minds. But they fit. It's tight and you may have to move the pipes around and persuade them into place, but they will install as shown.