At this juncture, removing the serpentine belt, smog pump, and all the Mustang's emissions equipment (hoses, tubes, and so on) are the last tasks before the install process begins. This kit doesn't have an Executive Order number from the California Air Resources Bureau (the 50-state-legal blessing). Depending on where you live, drive, or register your Mustang, an aftermarket turbo may not be permissible for street use. It's important to consider all the legal variables involved with a turbocharged 'Stang because you don't want to get busted.
Jimmy disconnects the factory O2 sensors, which are retained and reused once the turbo system is fully installed.
Although HP has thoroughly scienced out every aspect of its Fox turbo system, it's always a good idea to mock-fit critical pieces, especially if your 'Stang has ever sustained front-end or frame damage. With the hot-side header in place, Jimmy checks the position of the turbine housing in relation to the frame. Keep a marker handy to indicate areas accordingly, should there be any reason to modify.
Have you ever wondered what the science is behind the turbo inlet dimensions when you see racers discussing turbo sizes on Internet forums? HP's Fox setup uses a 60mm turbo, meaning the distance between two tips of its inducer (blade-like pieces on the compressor wheel) measures 60 millimeters.
Bench assembly is a small part of a turbo installation. Jimmy mounts the inducer inside the compressor housing and attaches an oil-supply fitting that will feed the compressor and turbine housings with engine oil. As we mentioned earlier, oil is the lifeblood of a turbo system. It cools and lubricates the internal components of both housings.
We drained fuel prior to beginning the installation, so Ricardo and Eli have an easy go at lowering the fuel tank. With the tank down, replacing the filler-neck rubber gasket (PN F4ZZ-9072-DA) is a good idea. Original pieces with as much time on them as Ricardo's has are probably going to look as bad as this one does.