Be mindful of this when you're installing a disc-brake system: Rotors must be centered-or fairly close to center-within their caliper brackets. Notice how the bracket is making contact with the rotor. | 
Chris corrects this problem by adding three shims each (included) on the top and bottom of the driver-side brake assembly between the caliper bracket and its mounting plate. The passenger side is fine. | 
Brake lines for each caliper are prebent, installing without any problems. SSBC also provides new parking brake cables, which are direct-fit replacements. |
This 'Stang isn't the prettiest Pony we've worked with, but it runs like a thoroughbred, carving corners with the best of them. It now has improved stopping power and sits on nice five-lug wheels, which should be an incentive for Lee to handle the other beautifi-cation tasks.
Ricardo disconnects lines and mounting hardware for the 'Stang's factory master cylinder and removes it from the engine compartment. Due to the greater pressure needs of rear disc brakes, this piece has to go.
Drawing Blood
Anew master cylinder is a must-have component in a five-lug conversion project. SSBC provides a new master with its A112-2 kit since a Fox's factory pump won't support the fluid-pressure demand of rear disc brakes.
With the exception of making sure every nut and bolt is tight, bleeding a brake system (purging trapped air) is probably the most important element of any brake installation.
Many of you are familiar with the bleeding procedure, but first-timers should also have the knowledge. That said, here's a breakdown of how to properly bleed brakes on the bench and on a 'Stang.
Bench Bleed
1. Secure the master cylinder in a vice and ensure it's level.
2. Attach individual tubes to both brake-line fittings and run their ends into the front and rear reservoirs.
3. Fill each reservoir with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid.
4. Use a brake-pedal rod or other plunger-type tool to pump the master cylinder until bubbles stop appearing.
5. Plug each brake-line fitting and secure the lid on the master cylinder.
The included new master cylinder is "bench bled" first, ensuring all the air is removed prior to installation. By doing this, the final bleeding of the new brake system goes a lot faster.
On the Mustang
1. After raising the car and taking off the wheels, fill each of the master cylinder's reservoirs with fresh fluid.
2. Beginning at the farthest caliper away from the master cylinder, push a tube over the nipple on the bleed screw and place the opposite end into a catch bottle or pan.
3. Have a buddy sit in the car to pump the brake pedal a few times and tell you when the pedal is firm. With big-brake systems, the pedal may not immediately firm.
4. Have your friend press hard against the brake pedal and hold it, then crack open the bleed screw slightly to release fluid and air bubbles. Close the bleed screw right before the brake pedal reaches the floor and have your buddy release the brake pedal.
5. Repeat this procedure until you no longer see air bubbles coming out of the caliper. Remember to check fluid levels as you go. Don't allow the fluid level in the reservoirs to drop low enough to allow air into the master cylinder.
6. Do the same up front, beginning with the passenger-side caliper. Brake fluid flows quicker in the front, so it's important to monitor and don't let it get too low.
7. Put the wheels back on, top off the brake fluid, and seal the master cylinder.
Installing the new master cylinder is a reverse process of its removal. SSBC provides prebent hard lines for this task, but we opted to use custom-cut flexible line. | 
SSBC also includes a proportioning valve with the kit. The valve on Lee's 'Stang is mounted along the cowl panel, plumbed directly inline at the OEM front-to-rear, brake-line union. | 
One final on-car bleeding of the brakes and our five-lug swap is complete. |