Now it's time to slide in the B-31HR cam. Slathered with assembly lube, it slides in place. Rick installs the cam straight up, as the AFM versions have four degrees of retard built into the grind; don't try to outthink the cam designer on this one.
Feeding big boost and big rpm means more fuel. In the old days, everyone used FMUs in the blower kits to pinch off the return line and send fuel pressure through the roof to support the boost. This puts a greater strain on your fuel pump, as increased pressure means reduced flow. Fortunately, modern tuning advances mean most people install larger injectors and tune the car to work with them. Chad already upgraded to 42s earlier in the series, but blowers rely on plenty of fuel, and we didn't want to detonate; Delphi 50-pounders ($525) got the nod.
Chad already opened the hole in his inner fender for the naturally-aspirated Power Pipe we covered earlier in the series, so he simply had to swap the supercharged version.
Now we're getting down to business. It's been a while since we've covered the basic 5.0 blower installation, so it's worth mentioning that Vortech's gear-driven blowers are lubricated by the engine's oiling system. That means you have to tap into the pressure side of the oiling system, which is easily accomplished by T'ing into the extension used by the factory oil-pressure sending unit.
Returning the oil to the engine is more complex: pierce the factory oil pan, tap it, and install a fitting. This is achieved by using a tap coated in heavy grease to catch the shavings.
Then you wrench in the fitting and install the drain hose. Suffice it to say, your oil should be changed afterward.