You have to tap the Big Pump into the factory fuel system, which means plumbing it betwixt the factory pump and filter. To do so, you must lower the tank, remove the stock line that runs between the stock pump assembly and filter, and replace it with the Big Pump and its adapter lines. This is easier on the Fox cars, as you only have to remove the safety clips by prying them out, but newer 'Stangs require a special tool.
Here's what your Big Pump should look like when it's plumbed and grounded. In case you didn't think about it, now is also a good time to install a new fuel filter. A clogged filter can be a big problem in high-horsepower cars, as it negates all those big pumps and injectors you installed.
While Rick prefers to pick up power directly at the battery, the pump must be switched on via a relay. To get the Big Pump to engage with the in-tank pump, you tap the relay wiring into the factory pump wiring.
Don't worry, the pump kit includes complete instructions. Once installed, the Big Pump operates seamlessly in conjunction with the in-tank pump.
Chad chose to route the braided-steel nitrous line up through the car's cabin. This path protects the line from foreign objects outside the car. Be sure to properly tighten all your lines and fittings, as you don't want to inhale the laughing gas while you are powering down the road. Also, use rubber grommets around the line any time you pass it through sheetmetal. In Chad's case, the line only passes through the firewall to the engine compartment.
With the lines run, Chad taps the Shark nozzle into the inlet elbow of the AFM Power Pipe. We skipped the 35, 50, 75, and 100hp jets and moved straight to the 150hp jets. We could have gone higher, but we wanted to make as few pulls as possible to ensure the stock block would stick around for next time.
The Mustang shock tower has long been the anchor point for all manner of aftermarket goodies. In this case, it provides a good home to the necessary relay and solenoids to control the nitrous delivery to the engine.