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Totally Tubular - Fox Mustang Front-Suspension Upgrade
New suspension, brakes, and shocks turn a tired Fox into a road warrior
From the June, 2006 issue of 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords
By Eric English
Photography by Eric English
Here'a a majority of the goods... Here'a a majority of the goods we sourced from Kenny Brown, including the company's K-member, control arms, sway bar, and Koni double-adjustable struts. Also pictured are the 500-in-lb H&R springs, Baer Tracker tie-rod ends, and D&D coilover conversion hardware. Horse Sense: Unfortunately, while we were putting this story together, Kenny Brown Performance went on a bit of a hiatus due to main man Kenny Brown suffering some rather severe health problems. The company hopes to have production of its parts back up and running this summer, but we decided to run our story because it leads up to the Fox IRS swap we'll be running in an upcoming issue. Based on repetitive observation, we find that transforming a stock Mustang into something worthy of road-course accolades usually happens in stages. This article is specifically about the front suspension, so you know the routine. Typical first steps might involve stiffer springs and a strut-tower brace, while a follow-up would do well to include upgraded struts, caster/camber plates, a bumpsteer kit, and control-arm bushings (particularly on a high-mile chassis) when budget allows. Of course, there's still more front-end hardware to be had when your goal is serious corner carving, but the point is that a car rarely goes from zero to hero in one fell swoop. Yet that's exactly what we observed recently as we surveyed a complete Kenny Brown front suspension being installed on Brian Holsten's '92 LX. Brian's Mustang already sported a Cobra brake upgrade, but the suspension was unaltered save for a set of replacement struts. All that changed in relatively short order, with the results being as dramatic as night and day. Right up front, Kenny Brown's... Right up front, Kenny Brown's instructions direct you to have a shop manual handy for the numerous torque specs and disassembly procedures. Likewise, we won't give you a blow-by-blow for removing the old components, but we will show you a few helpful hints. Now if you've been mulling over how to improve the cosmetic profile of your ride by dropping it in the weeds, this setup isn't the right one for you. Kenny Brown certainly offers such simple spring/strut/shock setups for the mild enthusiast, but the installation we watched at Brad's Custom Auto in Seattle is clearly for serious track hounds or extreme street rides. In this case, our parts list consists of nearly everything in the Kenny Brown book, some of which are standalone pieces and others that can be used only in concert with companion items. For example, both the tubular K-member and control arms require the use of coilover assemblies, as neither has the pockets to support traditional coil springs. Likewise, you need to run the Kenny Brown control arms with the company's K-member, though you can use the control arms on a stock K-member if you're on a multi-step budget. Beyond the Kenny Brown branded pieces mentioned in this story, Brian assembled a smattering of complementary items to complete the front-end makeover, including Koni Sport double-adjustable struts, H&R coilover springs, and Baer Tracker adjustable tie-rod ends-many of which are stocked at Kenny Brown's Indianapolis digs. Before raising the car on... Before raising the car on the rack, Brian and fellow tech Scott Hicks ready the engine for the absence of the K-member. An empty engine bay would make this install a piece of cake, but rigging the engine cradle is a no-brainer as well. Hey, guys-don't forget to disconnect the battery before the car goes up in the air. The virtues of this system are many, including weight savings, improved suspension geometry, extra clearance for items such as big-tube headers, and precise ride-height adjustment. But understand that this isn't a cheap fix-either in quality or cost-yet the dollars spent will pay vast dividends next time you hit the track. That's the plan for Brian, one of Brad's Custom Auto's experienced technicians, whose car is undergoing transformation from a street to street-legal track car, with the intent of regular participation in club track days and SCCA Time Trials (Solo 1) in the Pacific Northwest. Now sporting a sophisticated front suspension, Brian's car will eventually see power from a 408-inch powerplant and will be the subject of a new rear suspension we're working on for an upcoming issue. In the meantime, let's begin up front.
Disassembly begins with removal... Disassembly begins with removal of the braking system. Standard practice involves leaving the brake hydraulics intact by hanging the caliper with coat-hanger stock. Here, the factory front coils are nearly ready to be forever freed from duty, but be aware of the tremendous energy potential of the compressed springs. This is one area of the job where you could maim yourself if you're aimlessly bustin' bolts. We can't stress this enough-follow the shop manual or enlist the help of an experienced hand. Koni is a name that needs little introduction to the Mustang world, having been associated with our beloved ponycar since its shocks were fitted as standard equipment on the '65 Shelby GT350. The company continues to be a leader in the world of high-performance dampers and, of course, offers a wide variety for late-model Mustangs, including Koni Specials (reds), Koni Sport single-adjustables (yellows), and Koni Sport double-adjustables. All of these Konis are adjustable for rebound, with the DAs being adjustable for both compression and rebound. As a part of this installation, Brian knew his particular application could take advantage of the top-of-the-line Koni DA, which immediately brought to mind the following question: Just when is this type of serious equipment truly desirable? We broached the subject with the folks at Kenny Brown, and they explained the need or desirability of a DA is wholly determined by the application and mindset of the owner. Brian is clearly the right guy for the DA, as he's experienced, hands-on, and has a near dedicated track car. Conversely, the guy who doesn't turn a wrench, hits the track just once or twice a year, and wants to simply get in and drive is completely at the other end of the spectrum-even a good candidate for a high-quality nonadjustable. It's hard to nail down the in-between enthusiast, whose desire to tune the suspension dictates at least a single-adjustable. Those in the gray area would do well to discuss the issue with a shop or suspension company they might have bought parts from in the past-which would include a company such as Kenny Brown. Price is clearly a factor as well, as the front Koni Sport DAs retail for $200-$300/pair more than Koni Sport single-adjustables. Kenny Brown is obviously in business to sell parts, but within this is a desire to sell a customer the parts that are of greatest benefit to his or her situation, which may not include the DAs even when budget allows. If Kenny Brown deems the customer doesn't have the driving experience, frequency of use, willingness to really dial in the chassis, or the parts necessary to complement the pinnacle Konis, they may well encourage the customer to go with a less exotic damper and step up to other parts that could provide more benefit: "Sir, have you ever considered our tubular control arms?"  Absent the brakes, struts,...  Absent the brakes, struts, and springs, there's little more to do besides removal of the control arms. Technically you could leave these attached to the old K-member, but removing them beforehand might make the K-member easier to manage when unbolted. |  Kenny Brown instructions also...  Kenny Brown instructions also recommend removing the steering rack, but Brian prefers to pull the rack forward and zip-tie it to the stock sway bar for the duration. This eliminates having to open up the hydraulics of the power-steering system. |  Before the K-member is finally...  Before the K-member is finally removed, Scott checks the stock K-member's relationship to the rest of the chassis by measuring front to back and corner to corner, using four plumb bobs. Kenny Brown's K-member is designed with factory-style mounting slots and holes (pierce points), so while the squaring practice seen here arguably isn't necessary, it's a step that many professional shops take. Measuring the stock arrangement gives an indication of factory tolerances and can reveal existing problems before the new K-member is fitted. |  In the end, eight bolts and...  In the end, eight bolts and two motor-mount nuts are the sum of the K-member attachment points. With all the underpinnings removed, it's easy to see why the engine cradle is necessary. Ever thought of upgrading your stock oil pan? Now's the time. |  Stock versus tubular. From...  Stock versus tubular. From this angle, it's tough to see the revised geometry the Kenny Brown piece employs, but you can easily see why the new K-member gives better clearance for headers and such due to its less bulky design. Superfluous flab is also trimmed by 22 pounds-a nearly 50 percent reduction. In addition to K-members designed for the Fox/5.0 combo, Kenny Brown has similar units available for just about any combination from '79 to '04. |  Prior to hefting the new K-member...  Prior to hefting the new K-member in place, we had to resolve three minor items. Kenny Brown explains that dimpling the framerail at the area where it makes a downturn just aft of the K-member is necessary-a process that takes all of 15 minutes. While the instructions mention using a die grinder, Brian carefully used an air chisel and an air hammer with good results. Pictured here is the result on the driver side, where one must be careful to avoid the brake line. |  Two other issues were resolved...  Two other issues were resolved before the K-member was bolted in. Brian used a disc grinder to shave off a small nub on each motor mount, and the only remaining task was tweaking a fuel line on the passenger-side framerail-all small potatoes. |  Once the Kenny Brown K-member...  Once the Kenny Brown K-member is bolted in, it's easier to see some of the geometry changes made by it. We've inserted a long socket extension through the control-arm mounting points as a visual reference. Note how the rear mounting point is higher than the front, resulting in the control arm being angled when installed, which improves anti-dive characteristics. |  Next up, we'll mount the Kenny...  Next up, we'll mount the Kenny Brown control arms that are an integral part of this tubular front suspension and trim 12 pounds over a pair of stockers. The arms come in two versions, which fit virtually all evolutions of the late-model Mustang chassis-one is a Heim-jointed competition version and the other uses a more conventional ball joint for both street and track use. We're installing the latter, but both feature reduced weight and improved roll center. |
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1996 Ford Mustang Cobra Suspension Upgrades
The Mustangs suspension is pretty good for a production car, providing good street handling and a livable ride. Though a ton of fun, the Fox- and SN-95-body Mustangs will easily exhibit...
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