When upgrading an alternator,...
When upgrading an alternator, PA-Performance recommends using this high-amperage-power wire kit for the 95-amp model and requires it on all other high-output models. The kit is easy to install and helps take the load off the undersized factory wiring.
PA-Performance offers nine finishes for its alternators, including chrome plated, polished, bare aluminum, and six powdercoated options. The yellow 3G alternator was a special request by us, but Rick Harmon of PA-Performance says this color might be added to the company's selection of colors if demand warrants. To check out the available colors, go to the PA Web site (www.pa-performance.com).
When designing a car, engineers must calculate various system loads. They use components that will handle these loads and then build a bit of headroom into them. For instance, when designing a cooling system for a car, an engineer will take into account the radiator size, the water-pump-pulley ratio, and the radiator-cap pressure-all of which keeps your car cool, even when sitting in traffic on a 100-degree day. But if you put more heat into the system than it is designed to handle, the cooling system will cease to be efficient and will begin having problems keeping the engine cool. That is why larger radiators are necessary when adding performance engine parts.
The PA-Performance 160-amp...
The PA-Performance 160-amp alternator is built entirely of new parts-as are all its alternators and starters-and comes with a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser. PA is a March Performance dealer, so you can option billet pulleys and pulley covers to match your other March pulley dress if you wish.
The alternator and charging system are designed basically in the same manner. The alternator output, the charging-wire size, the pulley ratio, and so on are all configured to maintain the proper voltage to a stock Mustang and its stock stereo, fuel pump, ignition, and accessories. But increase the load extensively with a high-volume fuel pump, an aftermarket ignition, and a killer stereo with a couple amplifiers, and you need some serious amperage to keep everything in check.
PA-Performance makes it simple to upgrade to an alternator that will handle your current (no pun intended) and future needs. PA's alternators and starters are made from all-new materials and come "clocked" (meaning the ears are in the right location for mounting) to your application. Easy-to-follow instructions are included. Even the proper pulley is already installed so you don't have to hunt down a shop or parts store to swap parts. PA offers several alternator amperage options, as well as conversion kits for Bullitt intakes, one-wire race alternators, and more.
In addition, PA recently began offering polished, chrome-plated, and powdercoated housings for the show-going crowd. We had the company fire us one of its newest 160-amp 3G direct-replacement alternators for Associate Editor Johnson's new Chrome Yellow notch. (The base 95-amp model does not require bracket modifications-as does the larger amp model we are installing-and will drop right into the stock bracket.) The small amount of material that needs to be removed for alternator-case clearance is easily handled with a file or grinder. PA even powdercoated the alternator in yellow as a special request for us. Check out the following pictures to see how easy an alternator swap is on the Mustang.
 When upgrading an alternator,...  When upgrading an alternator, PA-Performance recommends using this high-amperage-power wire kit for the 95-amp model and requires it on all other high-output models. The kit is easy to install and helps take the load off the undersized factory wiring. |  The serpentine belt must be...  The serpentine belt must be removed for access to the alternator. Using a long-handled ratchet and an 18mm socket, rotate the spring-loaded tensioner upward to take the tension off the belt surface. Lift the belt off one of the accessory pulleys. If your belt routing sticker is defaced or missing, make a note of the routing before removing the belt. |  The stock 2G alternator has...  The stock 2G alternator has two elec-trical connections on its side-both simple, plug-in connectors. One is for the voltage regulator, shown here, and the other is a bit lower on the side of the housing for the rectifier connections. Disconnect the battery and remove these two plugs, pulling them out of the way. |
 The voltage regulator connector...  The voltage regulator connector will remain untouched, but the rectifier connector will need to be converted to individual wiring. Cut the three wires about an inch from the end of the connector. The connector can be discarded. |  The alternator is attached...  The alternator is attached to the mounting bracket via two bolts-a 9/16-inch bolt at the top and a 5/8-inch bolt at the bottom. Remove the two bolts. Then wiggle the alternator case forward and backward in the bracket to loosen the spring steel spacer at the bottom of the bracket, allowing the alternator to come free. |  In the hardware package that...  In the hardware package that came with the new alternator is a red butt connector and two ring terminals, along with two sections of shrink-wrap sleeve. Slide the shrink-wrap over the two large black wires, and crimp the ring terminals onto these wires. Use the red butt connector to attach the new stator-wire pigtail to the original white wire. Solder the connections for added strength. |