Horse Sense:
The PMGR starter weighs a paltry 8.5 pounds. This is a reduction of as much as 50 percent compared to the standard '79-'92 starter assemblies (there were two different models, one weighing 19 pounds and the other one weighing 14 pounds).
PA Performance's PMGR starter...
PA Performance's PMGR starter kit for the 5.0 includes a starter assembly (constructed with all-new components), a protective terminal cap, a wiring kit, and tie-wraps for a clean installation.
Ford was really on to something in the early '90s. Permanent-magnet, gear-reduction (PMGR) starters began showing up across many of its car lines, first with luxury products, then with trucks, and eventually with the rest of the corporation's line of vehicles. These starters offered amazing amounts of cranking power with less weight and quieter operation, and they used less amperage too. It would be several years before GM and Chry-sler jumped on the bandwagon with PMGR starters of their own design.
While the PMGR starter didn't show up in the Mustang until 1992-and has been installed as OE on the Mustang ever since-it is quite an easy retrofit to any late-model 5.0 Mustang with an automatic or manual transmission. The PMGR starter can even be used on older Mustangs with an automatic trans and the correct flywheel tooth count. Standard Ford starters put out anywhere from 1.1 to 1.4 kilowatts of power, depending upon vendor, age, windings, and battery voltage. The PA Performance PMGR starter puts out 1.4-1.5 kw with no problems.
Whenever you work directly...
Whenever you work directly with constant battery voltage-as with the starter circuit-it is wise to first disconnect the battery. Don't worry about the radio stations. You were getting tired of listening to that top-40 teen station anyway, right?
PA Performance-known for its high-quality performance alternators built from all new components-added PMGR starters to its line of electrical parts last year and has seen brisk sales of the little wonders. Its best seller is the 5.0 Mini-Starter and Wire Kit (PN PA1806), which retails for $135 both through PA's Web site and its dealer network. In fact, this particular kit is so popular, when we called to order one to replace the weak starter in Editor Turner's purple notch, we were told they were on back-order. While the wait would have been barely a week, PA offered to ship us a kit from one of its dealers. We received our starter the next day from the fine folks at Central Florida Motorsports. (Thanks, Hector!) Imagine that-same price and next-day delivery! The included full-color installation instructions were excellent. However, since there's a trunk-mounted battery with the starter solenoid in the trunk, we had to wire an optional relay into the starting circuit.
PA also offers PMGR starters for vintage V-8s, 460s, and even the 2.3 in naturally aspirated and turbo configurations.
Take a look and you'll see how easy this upgrade is.
With the starting circuit...
With the starting circuit dead, we begin the removal of the old 10-ton starter. The starter is attached to the bellhousing with two 11/42-inch hex-head bolts. A 11/42-inch socket or boxed-end wrench will get the job done for the bottom bolt, but reaching the top bolt requires the use of a swivel socket or some extensions. Take your time and run the extension around the engine mount for access.
As you remove the second bolt...
As you remove the second bolt (it doesn't matter with which one you begin), the starter will begin to drop. Support the weight of the starter to prevent it from breaking the bolt threads out of the bellhousing. Lower the starter, and remove the battery cable from the starter.
While our trunk-mount battery...
While our trunk-mount battery 1/0 cable has a large enough eyelet to prevent any problems on stock-type starters, it is often necessary to cut away the antispin tabs or drill out the hole size to allow installation of the cable onto the new PMGR starter. The PA Performance instructions nicely show this detailed step. If your starter solenoid is still under the hood, then swap the cable connection at the solenoid now as well.
Usually, this is where we...
Usually, this is where we would install the battery cable and run the included wire to the starter solenoid, but since our starter solenoid is in the trunk, we need a relay for the starter circuit. If we didn't use a relay for our particular setup, the starter would continue running. We're using a M.A.D. Enterprises Universal Relay Kit (PN RLY-1; $24) to solve the problem. This relay kit is the most complete we've ever seen, with terminals, wiring, and shrink-wrap included.
To prepare the M.A.D. relay...
To prepare the M.A.D. relay for use in our revised starter circuit, the included lengths of yellow, red, and white wires are crimped, soldered, and then covered in shrink-wrap. The black ground wire for the relay is terminated with a ring terminal, for grounding at the relay mounting point.
The yellow and red high-current...
The yellow and red high-current wires are taped tightly together, as they will be the ones traveling down to the starter.