Edelbrock Performer 5.0 Manifold: Air Apparent

Don't forget the throttle cable (it's a common mistake). Remove the two 10mm bolts now; otherwise it will be difficult to free them with the upper plenum loosely sliding around. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pop the linkage free of the throttle body.

Six bolts hold the upper plenum to the lower--two in the front, two in the rear, and two under the removable plenum nameplate. If your intake has never been removed, there is a small bracket on the driver-side rear of the manifold that needs to come off.

With the six bolts removed, the upper plenum should easily give way with a simple bump of the hand. It can then be lifted off the lower plenum. Go slowly in case you've missed a connection or hose. It's good to have a helper at this point so you don't have to set the manifold down.

To gain access for removing the lower intake plenum, you'll need to remove the distributor from the block. Begin by removing the distributor cap and wires. Use a china marker or a permanent marker to note the position of the rotor in relation to the cap adapter. Finally, unbolt the distributor hold-down and pull the distributor up and out. As long as the engine isn't cranked, the distributor can be dropped back in by marking the lines back up. Plug the distributor hole with a rag or paper towel.

Here's where you'll need the fuel-line disconnect tools. We're using the Ford/OTC style that wrap around the spring lock, but the parts-store versions will do the same job. Disconnect the two lines and move them out of the way. If you haven't drained the coolant yet, do so now. Remove the two hoses from the front of the intake at the coolant tube and thermostat housing.

Usually the coolant transfer tube is removed from the lower intake plenum before the intake is freed from the grip of the intake gaskets. But oftentimes, and in this case, the nut and stud that secure the rear of the tube (arrow) are stubborn and will not release their grip on the tube. If you're lucky the stud-head bolt and nut will rotate together with some manipulation. If this is the case, remove the other 11 intake bolts first and remove this bolt last (as it will lift the intake).

Once all 12 bolts are removed and the injector harness is disconnected from the main PCM harness (don't forget the HEGO ground on the back of the driver-side cylinder head and the oil-pressure sending unit wire), separate the intake from the heads, pulling the intake back and up to clear the A/C lines.

Here's some dirty work. Use a gasket scraper, razor blades, sandpaper, or whatever works for you to strip and clean the cylinder head and block surfaces of all remaining gasket material. Leaving old gasket material behind can cause a leak, so be diligent in your cleaning here. Use shop rags or paper towels to block off the ports to prevent gasket shards from going into the combustion chamber.

With the old lower intake manifold on a workbench, remove the fuel rails and injectors, the temperature sending unit, the EGR cooler-hose fitting, the coolant passage plug, the thermostat housing, the ACT sensor, and the coolant transfer tube (if not already removed) from the intake. Clean everything and apply fresh thread tape or Teflon sealant where required.