We had some of these nice-looking Unlimited Performance Racing switch-panel covers laying around, so we mocked up a pair on the door armrests (we also used UPR's A/C knobs and coat hooks on the interior project). We were all in agreement that they look quite spiffy in our black interior. We may just have to convert to power windows and add the switches to make this all work.
Auto Custom Carpets has everything you need to install fresh carpet in any year Mustang. Not only did we get black stock-type, cut-pile carpeting for our Real Street ride, but also ACC's floormat division whipped up these sweet, embroidered floormats. In addition, we ordered some bulk carpeting (sold by the yard off the roll) to cover the now-vacant rear-seat area.
The carpet lays in place easily, requiring only minor trimming. What's nice is if you aren't using the factory console or parking brake in your race car, the carpet-while precut for those areas-still has the carpet sections in place. Just leave them in place and you have nice, new carpet everywhere.
Using the bulk carpet, we carefully trim away small scraps around the rollbar and plastic quarter-trim panels (already installed) for a clean fit. 3M trim glue in aerosol cans helps hold everything in place.
Since Project Real Street began life as a four-cylinder car, we needed a complete, black V-8 spec dash with gauges and wiring. All Mustang was able to scare up one of these rare, unmolested beauties. Here Associate Editor Johnson gets the short straw and has to work cleaning detail. If only he would do the same to his own car's black interior.
Installing the dash assembly is a two-person job. The wiring harness must be carefully routed out of the firewall by the brake booster, while the HVAC system, defroster ducts, pedal-support brace, and so on are carefully aligned to allow the dash to sit correctly. As soon as the dash is in place, have someone install the center screw of the five long Torx screws found underneath the defroster duct trim. Complete the dash installation by attaching the remaining four screws along the top and the bolt found in each corner by the kick panel.
The console slides into place. Again, All Mustang was able to find a console for us, this one from a '90 with no armrest. Since '87-and-up models have the correct console rear-mounting brace, it's simply a matter of tightening down some Phillips-head screws. If you're updating the interior on an '86-or-older model, you'll have to acquire this brace as well in order for your console to mount securely.
With the factory gauges monitoring the basics, we knew we had to get more detailed information on our D.S.S.-built 306 and our Paxton Novi 2000 supercharger. We installed a full count of Auto Meter Phantom gauges using the company's tach pod and A-pillar pod treatments, as well as its two-gauge center A/C vent gauge cage. Filling these openings is a tach with shift light, fuel pressure, boost, air temp, water temp, oil pressure, and exhaust temp. The wiring of this many gauges is oftentimes handled with the dash out of the car. We did some preliminary wiring this way, but since our 306 was still on the engine stand at the time, we have to wire each gauge separately for the most part.
Although we aren't installing it just yet, we picked up a KS Reproduction white-face gauge overlay kit from CJ Pony Parts to complement the Auto Meter Phantoms. We'll hold off installing the white-face kit until we get the Real Street fired up, so we can properly place the gauge needles during the upgrade.