The Aeromotive sumped replacement...
The Aeromotive sumped replacement tank just barely peeks out of the stock plastic tank cover, letting you know there's power to be reckoned with under the hood.
For most street-driven Mustangs with moderate bolt-ons, the typical fuel-system upgrades likely consist of a higher-capacity intank fuel pump and a fuel-pressure regulator to make tuning adjustments. These basics will see you to the mid-300hp range with nary a problem. But when you start creeping past these numbers, a serious fuel system is necessary to allow proper volume, pressure, and adjustability for the higher levels of horsepower you're playing with.
Aeromotive has quickly made a name for itself among the 5.0 performance crowd-both street-oriented and hard-core alike-with its 5.0 Dynamic Fuel System Kits (there are four). We featured the first installation of the company's Competition Kit in Editor Turner's '89 notch last year ("Thoroughly Pumped," Oct. '01, p. 63), and the various Dynamic Fuel System Kits and associated parts have been flying off the shelves ever since. It's difficult not to spot at least one Aeromotive part on a race-prepped 5.0 at the track these days.
Before we start routing braided...
Before we start routing braided fuel lines, there are several pieces of the Aeromotive kit that need to be joined into subassemblies. First, we install the two filters (100 micron and 10 micron) to the Eliminator fuel pump using the correct -10 fittings. The use of aluminum AN wrenches is highly advisable.
With Project Real Street, we decided the Aeromotive 5.0 Dynamic Fuel Systems would be the ideal choice. Since our Real Street D.S.S.-built 306 would need plenty of fuel, we decided to go to the top of the list and order an Eliminator Kit (PN 17106) for our project. The kit is comprised of the Competition Kit parts (sumped tank, braided lines, fittings, regulator, and fuel rails), but instead of using the standard A1000 pump, the Eliminator Kit uses the Eliminator fuel pump. The Eliminator is good for up to 900 supercharged horsepower compared to the 400-700 hp with the A1000 pump.
To control the Eliminator's wicked pumping action of 650 lb/hr, we opted to install Aeromotive's new Billet Fuel Pump Controller. The FPC controls voltage to the fuel pump to slow down the pump speed during low-rpm driving, such as street cruising, return roads, and staging lanes. When the rpm signal to the FPC reaches 3,000 rpm (or your own setting-it's user adjustable), the available voltage from the charging system is applied to the pump to allow it run at full speed. The FPC includes all the pre-vious fuel-pump wiring bits used to wire a pump-relays, circuit breakers, and so on-into one solid-state circuit board that is fully potted for weather and vibration resistance. Simple LEDs aid in diagnostics and proper functions. The FPC is definitely the best way to wire in a mondo race pump for street use.
What follows is the complete installation of the Aeromotive system and FPC into our Real Street project.
Horse Sense: Don't think Aeromotive makes only electric fuel pumps. The company now offers a beltdriven pump that supports carbureted and fuel-injected applications. The Billet Beltdrive Pump is designed to support up to 2,500 hp, with up to 200 psi of fuel pressure. Because the pump doesn't draw any current away from other critical systems, it's now finding a home on Pro 5.0 race cars.
 The fuel-pressure regulator...  The fuel-pressure regulator receives two -8 O-ring fittings to accept the braided lines from the fuel rails and a -6 fitting on the bottom (for the return line to the tank). The main feed line also incorporates a Y-block to feed the two fuel rails, which must be assembled with the proper fittings as well. |  Shown here are the fuel-pressure...  Shown here are the fuel-pressure regulator, the Y-block, and the pump/filter combo, assembled and with the associated line fittings screwed onto them. Next to them are the four fuel-rail fittings. |  The job isn't difficult, but...  The job isn't difficult, but if you've never assembled custom braided lines before, you must pay attention to what you are doing. First, cut the line to length with a hacksaw (use tape to prevent the braids from unraveling). Install the socket part of the hose fitting over the end of the hose until the hose is fully seated. |
 Apply tape around the base...  Apply tape around the base as an indicator for "pull out," and apply assembly oil to the socket, hose, and nipple. Seat the nipple into the socket and thread in the nipple. Watch your tape guide to see if the socket pulls off the hose, then tighten the nipple until there's just a few thousandths of an inch gap between the two. |  The fuel rails easily mount...  The fuel rails easily mount in place of stock rails, and feature a 11/42-inch I.D. and AN-threaded ends that accept these -8 O-ring fittings. No pipe thread is used anywhere in the Aeromotive system. |  The driver-side fuel rail...  The driver-side fuel rail is designed to allow the fuel-return line to the regulator to be plumed either between cylinders six and seven, or straight out the end of the rail (arrows). The included fittings will allow the underrail exit only, which is fine for most moderate-horsepower applications. However, we want the exit to be at the end of the rail, requiring a 45-degree, -8 tube fitting from Aeromotive to finish the job. |