5.0 Mustang & Super FordsHow To Tech Qa
Tech Questions and Answers - August 2014
10-Second QuestionQ: I think a great article would be all about how to make a ’13 Mustang GT automatic go 10.90. Would it need trick setups on parts like shocks, tuning, tire pressure, and changes made in hot and cold weather?
A: Adam Browne from Revolution Automotive says 10s are uttainable with a naturally aspirated combination. Adam has a customer who added JBA long-tube headers, off-road X-shape crossover pipe, Dynotech aluminum driveshaft, Circle D converter, Weld big ‘n’ littles with the new Mickey Thompson Drag Radial Pro 275/60s, a Ford Racing Cobra Jet intake with a Super Cobra Jet throttle body, and one of Revolution’s cold air intakes. The car makes 430 rwhp on pump gas, and benefits from a front sway bar delete, upper and lower control arms, and relocation brackets. It recently ran a 10.96 at 123 mph, weighing in at 3,700 pounds with the driver, at Maryland International Raceway.
Going the power adder route, any of the street-level kits is going to get your ’13 into the 10s. Another of Adam’s customers added a Roush TVS blower with minimal exhaust work and drag radials, and that car has run a best of 10.81 at 126 mph. A naturally aspirated combo will run in the 122-to-124-mph range, while a power adder will put you solidly in the 10s at around 125-128 mph. As you see, no trick parts. All of these are off-the-shelf items.
Mmm K-memberQ: I have a ’98 Mustang V-6, but I’m putting a 351 Windsor in it. Why do I have to change the K-member to put the 351 in the car? I have a friend who has a ’94 Mustang, but he didn’t have to change the K-member. What’s the difference between the ’94 and ’98 K-members? I really don’t want to change out the K-member if I don’t have to.
A: In talking to the helpful folks at Maximum Motorsports, we’re told the issue here is that the motor-mount pads are different for a pushrod engine. For the ’94-’95 cars, the K-member was the same for the V-6 and pushrod V-8 engines. For the ’96-’98 cars, Ford changed the K-member to be compatible with both the V-6 and incoming 4.6L modular engine. The motor mounts are totally different between the two.
Although the ’94-’98 Mustang V-6 was essentially unchanged, Ford changed the V-6’s motor mounts so they would only need a single K-member application for all ’96-’98 Mustangs. Your friend could use his existing ’94 K-member because it’s compatible with a pushrod engine. However, due to the motor mount change, the ’96-’98 K-member is not compatible with a pushrod engine.
The rack location is diffferent, as well, with the ’96-’98 cars. The 4.6L modular engine sits an inch lower in the K-member compared to a pushrod combination, which necesssitated lowering the steering rack an inch.
So what are your choices? Maximum makes a tubular K-member for ’96-’04 for pushrod applications, but you’ll need Maximum’s coilover kit, too. Maximum’s K-member doesn’t have a stock spring provision, so adding the coilovers is a must. Your other option is to get a ’94-’95 K-member, but if you go that route, make sure to get the spindles. If you don’t get the ’94-’95 spindles, you’ll have bumpsteer issues due to the aforementioned lowering of the steering rack.
What’s Your Number?Q: I’m looking for information on Incon turbo size that ran in an article from years ago in the mag. I have the same Incon turbo kit installed on my ’88 Mustang GT and need to rebuild one of the turbos. I know they are Garrets, but I don’t know what model. I just bought the car and the turbo kit is awesome.
St. Petersburg, FL
A: We knew exactly who to call on your Incon turbo question. Lamotta Performance’s Jake Lomatta has been a champion of the little-known twin- turbocharger kits since way back. Jake tells us the kits had different size turbos. All of them were very close in size, but Incon bought the center sections from Garrett.
Jake says you should be able to get a part number off the center section and call Precision Turbo [(219) 996-7832] to get an idea on which turbos you have. Precision Turbo can handle the rebuild for you, as well.
We’re sure if you have the part number off the center housing as Jake instructs, a simple Google search will help solve the mystery of what turbos you have, and you can go from there.
Virgin of the MonthStroker needs Oxygen
Q: Can you plese help? I’m running a 347 stroker in my ’87 Fox, with a Comp Cams roller, GT-40 heads, BBK Performance shorty headers, and the like. I need to know what oxygen sensors to use.
A: With a stroker combination in which air/fuel readings are of utmost importance, we recommend you go straight to Ford for replacement oxygen sensors. Sure, corner auto parts stores will have cheaper oxygen sensors, but this is not an area where you want to go all Cheaper Sleeper on us. We always feel getting genuine Ford oxygen sensors is the best move.