Modified Mustangs & FordsHow To Interior Electrical
How to Wire Vintage Ford Racers - Race Circuits
Keep your race car wiring simple with Painless Performance
23 The battery cable kit is a must for trunk mount battery setups typical to a race car setup like this. The ground cable comes out of the kit with the battery terminal already in place. Simply route it through your battery box and install the included ring terminal end secure to a solid ground.
24 For the positive cable it too is shipped with the battery terminal end in place, however, if you are using an external battery shut-off, like Rusty is, you’ll have to pick up a few extra 1-gauge terminals to be able to cut the battery cable and wire it to the shut-off switch properly.
25 The terminal ends can be crimped onto the bare wire ends, or if you have a propane or map torch you can heat them and apply solder to the terminal.
26 The battery cable kit includes shrink wrap in red and black to properly seal the terminal ends as well.
27 The completed battery cable routing in the trunk is neat and clean. The positive cable is routed through a factory hole and a pair of Painless Performance wire grommets and then travels forward to the starter solenoid under the car, secured by rubber coated clamps.
28 The harness between the switch panel and fuse/relay panel utilizes a quick-connect setup. The harness, once it is routed, is cut to the proper length and the included non-insulated terminals are crimped into place using the new Painless Performance crimper.
29 Carefully following the included instructions the connector wiring is inserted into the proper location in the backside of the connector until each wire locks into place.
30 Moving on to the front half of the harness, a small hole is drilled in the firewall for the engine compartment wiring to pass through. A grommet was used here as well, although we found it easier to pass the wiring through the bare hole first and then slide the grommet down the wires to the firewall where it was pushed into place with a small pocket screwdriver.
31 Routing the wiring forward the first connection made was to the starter solenoid. Each wire is printed with the wire’s routing information so it is very difficult to connect the wrong wires. Between color coding and the wire printing wiring any car can be a breeze.
32 The blue with yellow striped wire is the chassis harness feed for the headlights. Here the wire is passed through a small grommet in the core support and then looped back through the same hole. This will allow us to wire the passenger side headlight while the looped back wire will be routed over to the driver-side headlight.
33 The loop is cut and a solderless terminal installed with a quality pair of crimpers. The headlight’s low beam circuit is stripped of insulation and then crimped within the solderless terminal as well. The high beam wiring will not be used and ring terminals were crimped onto the headlight’s ground wires and grounded right at each headlight.
34 A length of shrink wrap is used to seal out all crimped connections, like the headlight circuit we just completed.
35 Once the forward portion of the harness was routed the wire wrap was added to the wiring for a clean engine bay appearance. The blue wire looped over the shock tower is for the engine’s electric water pump. As you can see, the engine is not installed yet, so we’ll have to revisit the project down the road once Rusty has the engine in place so we can wire the electric water pump, electric cooling fan, and a few necessary gauges. Stay tuned.